By George Mkandawire
Some journeys are not just about reaching a destination – they are about the memories created along the way. The Nkhatabay – Likoma journey is billed for such.
Our voyage aboard the iconic MV Ilala began at 10:00 p.m. from Nkhata Bay, as the legendary vessel wiggled through the calm waters of Lake Malawi.
Under a blanket of stars, the lake was peaceful, with only the gentle sound of waves hitting against the Ilala breaking the silence.
At exactly 2:46 a.m., almost 4 hours on the lake, the MV Ilala made a brief stop at Chizumulu Island. In the cold stillness of the night, the lake seemed to be asleep just as the inhabitants of the island.
But the island became alive as passengers carefully disembarked into small wooden boats, balancing bags, baskets and other belongings in their hands.
At the same time, others boarded the vessel, continuing a tradition that has defined island transport for generations.
Watching this seamless exchange in the darkness was a reminder of the resilience and determination of the people who rely on this water transport.
As the journey continued, darkness slowly gave way to the first light of day.
The sunrise over Lake Malawi was breathtaking, with golden rays bouncing on the shining surface of the lake reflecting across the calm waters as Likoma Island emerged on the horizon.
At 5:40 a.m., MV Ilala finally docked off Likoma, marking the end of an unforgettable overnight journey. From the quiet past midnight stop at Chizumulu Islands to the spectacular sunrise over Likoma Islands, the voyage was a perfect blend of adventure, beauty and the enduring spirit of life on Lake Malawi.
Until my next voyage, I bid farewell to the Old Lady of Malawi, MV Ilala. Thank you for carrying generations of stories across our beautiful lake and for reminding us that some journeys are meant to be savored, not rushed.
If you’ve never sailed with her, make it a voyage to remember. Step aboard, get greeted by the sounds of waves, meet fellow travelers, enjoy delicious chambo served with meal of your choice, watch sunrise over the water and experience a living piece of Malawi’s heritage.
Long live the Old Lady of Malawi, MV Ilala. “Pitilizani kutumikira fuko lathu.” Until we meet again.
